When I walked onto the tarmac at the San Juan airport, I was having second thoughts on how I was to arrive to Vieques, a small island paradise off the coast of Puerto Rico. The small plane (which required a weigh in before seating), was too tiny for comfort, yet the ocean views it provided made up for the less than spacious cabin.

Vieques proved to be a hidden gem that combined the right amount of rustic, wild nature with comfort. The island’s numerous beaches were pristine, and each one had variation in sand, water, and wildlife. The dirt roads were bumpy, and the roosters don’t quite seem to know the difference between late night lights and the sunrise. There are feral horses roaming everywhere, some friendly enough for ear scratches and selfies, and plenty of adorable babies. You may find yourself alone on the beach searching for seaglass, or rummaging through the small grocery stores on side streets.

Where to Stay

My family stayed at the Esperanza Inn, located right off the Malecon in Esparanza. This guesthouse was a home away from home with quaint luxuries and kind owners. J and Lisa make sure you are comfortable and accommodated, and the rooms are spacious and clean. Breakfast every morning brings an abundance of local pastries, and the grounds are equally as impressive. There is a small pool for a quick cool down swim, outdoor patios, and adorable cats visiting and often times ready to play.

Where to Eat

While unfortunately, about 50% of the restaurants in Esperanza are still closed due to the hurricane, there are several good eateries open that provide delicious meal options. Here are my top picks from the variety of great places I visited.

• Lunch- Lizzy’s Lunch Box
  • A tiny food truck along the Malecon of Esperanza, Lizzy, an expat from New York City, cooks up a delicious taco that is perfect for lunch. Try her fish tacos for flakey fish seasoned just right and grilled crispy, or her vegetable tacos to eat garden fresh grilled squash and asparagus. Made fresh and under $6 for lunch, you can’t beat it.
• Dinner- The Tin Box
  • My favorite restaurant of the trip, the Tin Box is a barbecue and sushi joint that serves delicious cuisine made from their fresh garden vegetables. Even after eating at a variety of sushi restaurants in Philadelphia, this was the best sushi I have ever had the pleasure to eat. Other noteworthy menu items (though not an exhaustive list) include their watermelon margaritas, pork barbecue, mac n cheese, and smoked apple slaw. The restaurant is only open Thursday-Sunday, so make sure to get your fill on the weekends.

How to Get Around

Vieques is 100% an island you need wheels for. In Esperanza, there were 2 beaches within walking distance, but to get to Isabella, The Tin Box, or any of the hidden beaches, you need transportation. Consider renting a golf cart from Vieques Car Rental to get around. The mountain roads will keep you occupied for hours, and it is super fun to drive around the dirt roads back to the most remote, unoccupied beaches.

Where to Go

• 375 Year Old Cieba Tree
  • A quick trip down by Mosquito Pier, this tree is a marvel to the eyes. Surrounding the tree is a herd of horses, and you may even be lucky enough to get some horse kisses like I did.
• Mosquito Pier
  • This long pier used to be used for tourism, but is no a wonderful spot for snorkeling. If you’re lucky, you will find a sea turtle or star fish. Wander to the beach at the base of the pier to find shells and undisturbed ocean.
• Sea Glass Beach
  • Travel down a winding road in Isabella to discover a beach where the sand is covered in treasure, sea glass! These beautiful gems are plentiful, and people are few and far between, meaning peace and quiet for your treasure hunting. If you see the ship wreck off the coast, you’ve made it.
• La Chiva Beach
  • After traveling down the road in the National Park (passing all 20 speed bumps), you reach an unpaved section that goes on for about 2 more miles. Once you’ve reached the sign for parking lot 10, you’re in crystal blue paradise. If there’s 10 people on the beach, it’s considered crowded.

    

• Fortín Conde de Mirasol
  • On the top of the hill, the last Spanish fort of the Caribbean can be found, turned into a restored museum. Inside, learn about the United States Military testing an history of this old prison fort turned landmark.  This is an especially great spot for a rainy day.
• Sun Bay
  • Probably the busiest beach on the island, the Sun Bay is a long stretch of beautiful white sand and blue water. Even with many people, this beach is still remote (especially in comparison with American beaches). Many will spend the day here with a tent, a grill, and some beverages.